Lake Como: Don't Stay in Como Town

The most common mistake I see people make when booking Lake Como: they book a hotel in Como town because it's the main city, it's easy to reach from Milan, and it has the most accommodation options. Then they arrive, find a perfectly fine but unremarkable Italian city with a lake visible in the distance, and wonder what all the fuss was about.

The lake that exists in everyone's imagination — the dramatic Alpine scenery, the villa-dotted shores, the silence broken only by water taxis — is not in Como town. It's in Bellagio, Varenna, Tremezzo, and a handful of smaller villages strung along the middle and upper branches of the lake. That's where you need to be.

Which Village Is Right for You

Bellagio — The Classic Choice

Bellagio sits at the exact point where the two lower branches of the lake meet, which means it has the most dramatic views of any village — water on three sides, mountains in every direction. It's also the most visited, so July and August can feel crowded in the main piazza. But stay here and you can walk to virtually everything: Villa Melzi, good restaurants, the ferry terminal. I place most of my clients here. Hotel du Lac has the best lakefront terrace on the entire lake — breakfast with that view is genuinely one of those travel moments. For something more intimate, Grand Hotel Villa Serbelloni is historic, grand, and has a spa and pool if your clients want a full resort feel.

Varenna — My Personal Favorite

Varenna is quieter, less discovered, and in my opinion the most beautiful village on the lake. It has a proper lakeside promenade (the Passeggiata degli Innamorati — the Walk of Lovers), dramatic ferry views, and Villa Monastero's gardens, which are among the finest on the lake. The village has fewer restaurants and shops than Bellagio, which is exactly the point. Hotel Royal Victoria is the right base — traditional, lakefront, excellent terrace. Varenna is also the best launch point for day trips to Lecco and the eastern branch of the lake.

Tremezzo — For the Villas

If you're coming to Lake Como specifically for the villa gardens — Villa del Balbianello (yes, the James Bond one), Villa Carlotta — then staying in Tremezzo on the western shore puts you closest to them. Grand Hotel Tremezzo is exceptional: an Edwardian palace with a floating pool on the lake, extraordinary service, and Virtuoso perks that make it one of the best hotel values on the lake when you book through me.

Getting Around: The Ferries Are the Point

Do not rent a car on Lake Como unless you have a very specific reason. The roads are single-lane, the villages have no parking, and the traffic in summer is genuine gridlock. The ferry system — operated by Navigazione Lago di Como — is frequent, affordable, and gives you views no road can match. A day pass covers most crossings and is worth it.

Day Trips Worth Making

• Villa del Balbianello — accessible by boat from Lenno, the gardens are extraordinary and the views used in Casino Royale make more sense in person
• Villa Carlotta — the best gardens on the lake, especially in spring when the azaleas and rhododendrons are in bloom
• Lugano, Switzerland — 45 minutes by car from Como, a completely different feel and worth a day if you have five or more nights
• Milan — easily done in a day from any of the main villages (45–90 minutes by train depending on your village)

When to Go

Late May and early June are the best weeks on the lake: warm enough to swim, before the July–August peak crowds, and the gardens are at their best. September is also excellent — still warm, noticeably quieter, and the light is extraordinary. I avoid recommending July and August unless clients are specifically looking for a lively summer atmosphere and book far in advance.

If you want to talk through which village makes sense for your specific trip — or want me to pull together a Lake Como itinerary — I'm always happy to help. This is one of my most-booked destinations and I genuinely love it.